ISRAEL - Part 10 "The Center of it All"

"Ten measures of beauty descended to the world, nine were taken by Jerusalem."
(Talmud: Kiddushin 49b)

I'm not sure if I'd go that far, but Jerusalem is a beautiful city. It's the most important city in the world for Jews and Christians, and in the top three for Muslims. And you would think with all that religion it would be a peaceful kind of place, but according to wikipedia, Jerusalem has been destroyed twice, besieged 23 times, attacked 52 times, and captured and recaptured 44 times. Our tour guide mentioned something about 18 times, but I can't remember if he was talking about destruction, besieging, or the changing of hands. Having just finished the cities' biography by Simon Montefiore, I can state with authority that I have never been in a bloodier 0.35 square miles in my life. 

I went to Ari's Bar Mizvah - look at us now!

There is much that could be said on this point, but I'll leave it at this: I never felt threatened. Lia and I ran around it. My friend Ari and I hung out late into the night. And I never felt my life was in danger. Parts of Winston-Salem feel scarier than this.

The city reminds me more of an old world European city than a Middle Eastern one. The streets are cobblestoned and narrow. Shopkeepers leap at you every-which-a-way but they don't assault your person. They make you feel like you're bleeding them when they barter, but it's really more for sport. They make their profit. They know it. You know it. It's just the margin that's in play. 

This is the Via Dolorosa "The Way of Suffering" - the path Jesus took from scourging to crucifixion. It was the beginning of the Eastern Orthodox Holy Week, so the streets were packed. I couldn't help but think of Jesus making his way through the crowd during that Passover years ago. Making my way through the crowd was moving. My feet warmed, imaging the painful journey his took. It was an odd feeling, warm feet up to my shins.  



The Western Wall is the only part of the Temple Mount that remains from the time of Herod the Great. It is a place of prayer. And irresistible to the touch. I didn't have any paper to write on. Every crevice is full of tiny prayers - or more likely big prayers on tiny paper. Twice a year they are collected and buried on the Mount of Olives. I wish I had a piece of paper. I didn't even have a bubble gum wrapper.  

Not to be sacrilegious, but who looks funnier? This guy or the guy above. Seriously.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a mystical place. For most of its existence, it's been considered to be the place where Jesus was crucified, buried, then raised from the dead. Then, a hundred fifty years or so ago people started casting doubt that it was the actual place - their reason mainly being because it says Jesus was crucified outside of the city, and if you have ever been to Jerusalem then you would know that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is decidedly inside the city walls. Some folks found another rock outcropping that they swear has a skull face on it (I don't see it). 

Do you see it? I sure don't.

So for the last century of so, I'd say most folks began to think this was the place. Well, lately, opinion has swayed back to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as it has lately been discovered that it was in fact outside of the city when Jesus was alive. So there you have it. 



It really doesn't matter to me. The one place you are certain not to find Jesus is at Golgotha. He is risen after all. Which brings me to one quick point. Having now seen these Holy Sites it is so clear to me that you get a much clearer picture of Jesus when you pay attention not to where he has been but to what he is doing now. 



At the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, people were lining up to kiss this place on the ground. For what I do not know. And as I stood there in the grotto watching this all go down, out of the corner of my eye, I saw this hundred old woman incapable of climbing the stairs back out (you had to go down stairs to kiss the spot). So this guy goes over to her and helps the old lady up the stairs. She thanked him in Italian and gave his cheek a tweak, and I have to tell you there was more Jesus in that moment than on the spot on the floor. 



Not to take away from any of these places. I admire the history. And it was quite moving to walk around the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and see the thousands of crosses etched into the wall by the pilgrims of the past while rubbing elbows with men and women from every continent who have come hear to worship the same God as I do. To see so clearly how this one man Jesus has touched so many people from every dot on the map really touched me. 

Church of the Nativity

 Interestingly, because the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is considered to be the holiest place for the Armenians, the Roman Catholics, the Greek Orthodox, and the Eastern Orthodox - two Muslim families carry the responsibility of unlocking the doors each day. The key has been in the family for, get this: 1,300 years! 

Abdeed Joudeh opens the door. 

We spent the afternoon at the "other spot" with the skull rock that doesn't look like a skull to me. It's called The Garden Tomb. It's really beautiful, and there is an authentic first century tomb with no one in it! So who knows?

The thing I really want to know is who is this lady who photo bombed our picture? She's beside Bruce and Rich in the back row. So if any of you have information on her identity or whereabouts please contact me immediately. I would love to track her down. Not to yell at her, but to congratulate her on her excellent work! Kudos to you, photo-bomber!

The only place I didn't get to go to was the Dome of the Rock. I'm going next time - even if I have to convert to Muslim for the day.