Appearances can be deceiving. According to my appearance in this picture, it appears as if I was having a good time while I was learning to surf. Perhaps from this picture it appears as if I actually caught a wave.
The truth is while I paddled after my brothers in law, all I could think about was not dying. But while I was focusing on not dying, a wave miraculously caught me! It was a boogie board ride like none other until I tried to position my feet under me and then - well, the expected carnage ensued.
The surf won that day. But it wasn't a complete victory. Because I might have swallowed enough saltwater to preserve my insides for 100 years, but I also caught the bug.
|my gnarly brothers in law. man, can they shred|
I'll be back, you waves of fury. I may never tame you. But my surfing days are not over yet.